A Nithsdale Way

An informal walking route from Southerness to Scotland's highest village, Wanlockhead

My intention here has been a path of less than a week's walking, with stages of 10 – 15 miles (15 – 25km). This is long enough to count as 'long-distance', feeling like a proper journey (in this case from the coast to Scotland's highest village). But short enough to be comfortably doable inside a week's holiday.

I've sought to minimise public roads (those that are used are quiet ones) and walking in plantations. I've looked for paths and tracks raised above the valley floor, for wide views. And I've looked for variety: farmland and moorland, riverside and tops of low, grassy hills.

Compared with the existing Annandale Way, Nithsdale has certain geographical advantages. The valley is narrower, making it easier to take the path up off the valley floor. We have a splendid middle-size hill in Criffel standing right above the sea. And the historic Enterkin Pass is every bit as fine as the Devil's Beeftub that finishes the Annandale Way.

Very little of the route is on tarmac roads or within forestry plantations. More than half is on local authority core paths, with occasional waymarking. Elsewhere the route may be pathless, and sometimes rough underfoot. In summer especially, sections over fields may have cattle, possibly running with a bull. (Divert into a neighbouring field.)

South to North will be the default direction. Walk with your back to the prevailing winds, coast to highest village is more inspiring than the other way around, and the Enterkin Pass makes a grand climax.

I've explored the route over several years, but improvements may still be possible (the high line over the Mullach only came on stream in 2026). Under Scottish access law anyone may walk the route if following the Scottish Access Code.

Using the gps files

GPS files and instructions to come. The route will be published on the OutdoorAccess platform and probably elsewhere, in due course. ie when I get around to it. Do send comments, corrections and suggestions via my Contact page.

Stage 1: Southerness to Carsethorn

Solway shore, somewhat rocky

The 18th-century lighthouse marks the start. After the Thirlstane rock arch, the foreshore to Carsethorn is mudflats and low cliffs. At Borron Point, a huge granite boulder, the Devil Stone, has been brought by a glacier from somewhere on Criffel. The limestone beds it's lying on show fossil corals and shells.

Route notes

After Powillimont: if the tide's in, there's a small awkward path above foreshore rocks. At extreme high tide with onshire wind, or if you're a US naval history buff, then instead take tracks 500m inland past John Paul Jones Cottage museum.

Last walked 2022

Stage 2: Carsethorn to New Abbey

Over Criffel

After 2km of quiet road, Kirkbean Glen is a charming wooded gorge. Field edges then lead up to open hill. The ascent to Drumburn is impressive, with granite boulders and great views over the Solway. But it is rough and pathless to 300m contour, where a small path forms. Placing of waymark posts here would assure a small path, taming the current roughness of the lower slope.

The crossing of Criffel on established paths, recently repaired, with very fine views. The descent off Knockendoch is unimproved though. A path beside the abbey leads into New Abbey village.

Route notes

Above Kirkbean Glen, if livestock in fields it's also possible to head up to left of tthe Kirkbean Burn

Last walked 2022

Stage 3: New Abbey to Dumfries

Mabie Forest, mostly

The first 7.5km start in Shambellie Wood, but then are on gravel track through plantations, some enclosed and some clear felled with views of the countryside and a glimpse of Lochaber Loch.

Paths through Mabie Forest are under broadleaf woodland, and in the open (Nith View Trail) with wide views to south and east. However the descent to the river plain is on a vanishing track through clear-felled brushwood, an awkward moment that it'd be great to have cleared for us by Land & Forestry Scotland!

Past the slightly interesting St Queran's Well, then on minor road and field footpath to Troqueer. Enter Dumfries along the tidal River Nith.

Route notes

On leaving New Abbey, there's a short section in woods alongside (to right of) the river before joining the side road. Various routes are possible through Mabie Forest but the one on the gps track is the nicest.

Last walked 2022

Stage 4: Dumfries to High Auldgirth

lead para

Exit over the 14th-century Devorgilla Bridge. The riverside path is "Burns' Walk", under the town bypass three times and passing opposite Lincluden Abbey ruins.

Fast walking on flood banks alongside River Nith leads to Dalswinton Estate with its charming loch and strange 'tin tabernacle'. A high line over The Mullach (350m or so) gives some great views before a couple of pathless fields lead to High Auldgirth.

Here you can press on for Thornhill, a long day of 30km; or descend to Auldgirth village at the riverside below.

Route notes

At Dalscone (after the third bypass bridge) you'll turn sharp left through a scrap yard to find the waymarked gate onto the flood embankment.

If the core path along the embankment is overgrown, you can usually take to fields on iits left.

2km afther Carnshalloch, on rejoining the river drop to a grass track to left of the eembankment. This leads into a section through a fine pinewood.

At the stile out of woods on the approach to Sandbed, you'll have to roll under three ssingle-strand electric fences. The more direct track to right of Sandbed is a short-cut if cattle are at the riverside.

If descending to Auldgirth at the end of this section, the tracks down to right of the tarmac lane have better views.

Last walked 2026

Stage 5: High Auldgirth to Thornhill

lead para

A slightly less interesting section, with the first 3km through plantations (though with occasional views), then on farm tracks. You pass the pele tower of Closeburn Castle, and then Thornhill's golf course.

A more challenging high-level route if starting from Auldgirth rather then Dumfries: take in Barnmuir Hill (206m) before descending alongside the spectacular Crichope Linn, a sandstone slot canyon. The gorge is awkward and quite exposed, with the gps route, if carefully followed, bypassing above one dodgy path section.

Route notes

At 700m after High Auldgirth, the former track marked on Explorer map is overgrown with moss and invisible from the main track. Turn down left immediately before a line of tall beech trees to find it. The foot of the track has fallen trees: bear right to avoid these.

If using the more challenging alternative route, one section of path above Crichope Linn is narrow on crumbling surface above a high drop. The gps track diverts up to the right to avoid this.

Last walked 2026

Stage 6: Thornhill to Wanlockhead

Morton Hills and the Enterkin Pass

A grand but challenging day. It can be divided at Durisdeer or the A702, where there are one or two buses back to Thornhill.

Valley floor woods and plantations lead by Lower Morton Loch to Morton Castle. You then cross Morton Mains Hill (328m) and two more steepsided grassy oness to Kettleton Byre bothy. An old track down steepsided little Glenaggart leads to historic village of Durisdeer. The mausoleum of the Dukes of Buccleuch, found behind the church, will surprise you.

Minor roads lead to the main A702 at Durisdeer Mill.

The Enterkin Pass is an old right-of-way (used by Bonnie Prince Charlie, Covenanters and others) first on a grassy ridgeline above Enterkin Burn, then up a deep little glen climbing to a high pass (570m, jointly with Criffel the high point of the route). A high path across moorland hillslopes leads down to Wanlockhead.

Alternative a bit shorter; west bank of Nith to Drumlanrig woods (Andy Goldsworthy sculpture) and castle; recross Nith and A76 for field tracks of high pasture and small woods north to Thrushlands at the start of Enterkin Pass.

Route notes

From the loch in Morton Wood, the short ascent to left of a fence is pathless and involves clambering over the trunk of a fallen beech tree.

In case of cattle at Morton Mains, you can instead head directly uphill from the dam end of Morton Loch, onto the ridge of Morton Mains Hill.

After crossing A702, the plantation and wood above Chapel Farm is pathless: make the best way you can through the trees due west.

Approah to Enterkin Pass: after 500m northwards above Enterkin Burn, the old right-of-way passes up Rashy Hill to left of a fence and hedge, then slants down on the path line marked on the map. This is the nicer way but may now be seriously overgrown, and instead a new track slants down left to run alongside the stream itself.

The old path heading up the narrow valley to Enterkin Pass top is vanishing into the grass, but just follow the electric wires, staying a few metres below them.

Last walked 2025